Print

[TKG26]

How about we use this thread to post tips, tricks and mods to keeping an SLASH going fast... Lets keep it race orientated so skip the 1/8th wheel conversions ect ect..

Ill use the next post to organize the info into one post. So lets not repeat info if its already posted.

IF you have a setup sheet post it here too... Breener!! no secrets! LOL

[TKG26]

reserved

[Breener]

Lol, I'd love to share.  Makes the racing more fun!  Most of my mods are done because I live 1.5 hours from the nearest hobby shop, and 20 minutes away from Canadian Tire

- I'm using rear shocks from a XXXT stadium truck, most stadium truck rear shocks would do the trick.  I found that my Slash rear shock shafts seem to bend easily.  I guess big bore shafts would fix this as well, but I had the XXXT ones laying around anyway. I also use 60wt oil in them with the traxxas white springs. Still using stock shocks in the front and am gonna try using 60wt oil in them this Wednesday.

- My aluminum battery mount (will post pics later) has helped keep a low centre of gravity by placing the battery under the chassis, but it does come at a cost of extra weight.

- Pack the Slash's diff with automotive grease, nice and thick and doesn't leak out.  I found that in stock form the diff would "give out" in corners and all your power would get wasted to the inside wheel

- everything else is stock as I had bought it (used), but I may try putting an aftermarket steering servo in it as well.

Oh yeah, shamrocks make you faster!!!

[Richie Rich]

I found this article about basic setup tips for the Stock Slash. Get your Slash Track-Ready! Stock-Spec Racing Setup Guide: Race-prepping your stock Slash; from the box to the track.

Traxxas - Accessories page on Traxxas page.

RPM Traxxas Slash hop-up parts (grea cover, motor mount/brace, bumpers, skid plates, arms, etc)

Oil from that article: 50 (front, 60 (back). Some use 40-50 or similar setups.

Shocks: the cheapest option for hop-ups is to replace only the top cap with the Traxxas alloy cap #TRA2667 (1 pair).

Mud protection: interior tray cover "Illuzion Slash over-tray" (JConcepts #2052 for Slash). It's basically made of the same material as the body and it covers the chassis & battery tray area from debris, mud and dirt. The reason for this is that the wheels are inside the body so all the mud gets everywhere, as opposed to a buggy where wheels are outside the body. This is not a waterproof feature but rather a convenient cover to ease cleanup and might be useful in the summer when it rains. It also comes for the SC10 in JConcept site. You can also get alternatives to this tray, such as the Proline undertray... or make one of your own.

FOR SLASH (JConcepts #2052 for Slash):


Stock ESC & Velineon ESC TIP: If you have a box stock Slash, the ESC is connected to the motor through bullet plugs. If you change to connect directly, there's not enough wire. RC Car Action tip is to flip the ESC around so the wires are closer to the motor and solder them together. You might have to open the receiver box (waterproof protector) to let out a little more of the receiver wire because of the longer distance.



Rear bumper brace/mount:
I found this video where the guy explains (about halfway in the video) the rear bumper MOUNT issue and rear skid plate area where there's the 3-bolts (not 4) braced around the motor. For this, you can buy the RPM rear bumper MOUNT/BRACE. You can also save your money and add a self tapping m3/screw to the front part of that lower bumper clip.



Wheel nut wrench:
if you don't like the stock T-bar driver, you can buy a nicer wrench (7mm). Make sure it's thin enough to fit in the tight space. If you like bling, get the Dynamite (DYN3064) and the 7mm Losi Nutdriver (LOSA99162).

Bumper(s): wow


Shocks:
Some options I found so far, which are all debatable...

- Big bore for Slash: not threaded
- Integy: Piggyback's, comes with oil cylinders thingies.
- Yeah Racing: comes with extra shock springs and parts, great low price, 90mm and 100mm. Small asian CO but they're really not bad for cheap stuff.
- Dynamite: aluminium body and cap only, not threaded. HOW-TO video right here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQbGgK9MZM0
- STRC shocks aluminium body and cap only, not threaded.

Tires & rims:
Proline sell plastic rims glued or unmounted, as well as beadlocks. Proline Beadlocks - how to install video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwFyZRNrVMQ

[Justind97]

I'm running now a similar setup to Breener.

I think I have the same shocks as he does, aluminum threaded ones.  I believe they're running about 30wt oil in them. Kept the same white springs though. about 104.5mm fully extended.

I'm going to try them as they are now, and then switch to 80wt and see the difference.

Truck does not have rebound, absorbs all the bumps in the road and squats down quite low.
I also did the battery relocation. I figure the offset of the weight is gained for cornering.

I also found a setup sheet:  http://s195302033.onlinehome.us/CX/BSheets/SSTra2.pdf

There have been posts where guys have reversed the tire direction to gain traction on the stock tires, ie  left changed directly to the right so the tracks going ^ now end up going v

There is a few posts on different setups. Of course this all depends on the type of dirt.

I myself have changed my rims for Proline Switch's. I'll see how they handle since they are much softer than the stock tires which gripped well.

and finally,

MIP Differential.  Apparently you're supposed to gain an average of 2 seconds on each run from this thing. Granted you need to run either automotive grease as Breener suggested, or use 10 000 wt oil.  I've opted for the later.

I'll let you guys know how it works out.

[Bodywerx]

BE VERY CAREFUL with the interior tray, yes they look awesome, especially on that pink BUG. LOL.
For 6mins racing it is fine. Running more that 10 mins with lipos, and brushless, will hurt it.

Remove it, It WILL overheat.

[GCM]

you have a slash dave?! didn't know...

another tip I used on mine was to use the 'upper' hole on the rear bearing carriers and that lowers the whole truck another 1/8 inch, which helps. Also used the 3rd hole out on the lower arms for shock mounts and all the way in mounting on the fronts, was tight on cornering/braking
good tip on the bumper mount (pic) 

[B4 power]

What are good tires that would give me good traction on the track?

[Breener]

Forgot to mention shock mounts as GCM had stated, they really do help with handling as well as the bearing carrier mounts.  Did some dremel work around my stock battery tray to try and offset some of the weight gains from the aluminum battery guard.
Goosebumps seem to be the tire of choice at Dirt Trax.

[Gordie]

Jc' Goose all around
40F shock oil 50R.
Stock white springs
front outside hole on shock
Rear center chock hole
Rear upper roll center link "shock tower needs small milling" and diff case

enough front camber so the tire doesnt rub the body when compressing.

Ran the truck as low as I thought was enough to still clear the jumps

Fixed the rear oem ESC placment.

RPM front end just to strengthen everything...

RPM rear end to lighten everything.
RPM carriers with over-sized bearings for bigger balls.

Venom electronics to have more power then second place.

 

[Richie Rich]

I just got the Traxxas Big bores shocks. My current setup is 40wt at the front, 50wt at the back.

[Richie Rich]

Just pimped my ride with RPM front bumper, skid plates and rear bumper. They're nice, strong and protect the screws. No major enhancements, but pimpin'. 

[B4 power]

A good trick to have a lighter truck is too change the metal gears to plastic. No, they won't get shreded cause buggy gears don't shread so why would these shread.

[SteveM]

I've only had three races with my Slash but will share what I've found to date. My Slash came with several upgrades including the blue alloy steering turnbuckles, hardened steel diff outdrives, RPM front & rear bumpers and spur gear cover, and the Traxxas Big Bore shocks. I have also added the Proline ProTrac suspension kit and installed J-Concepts Goose Bumps on the Proline zero offset rims. I'm running the Losi Xcelorin ESC combined with the Losi 13.5 BL motor and now with a Tekin Redline 13.5 BL motor.

My best showing to date is 14 laps in 6.01 and I can't seem to find the magic to improve. Not getting marshaled is key so my driving needs to improve.

Things I've noticed is the Slash has a very high center of gravity. This one factor alone probably handicaps me for sure. It seems to jump fine but I can't always get the traction that the SC10 or Blitz seem to have on a consistent basis. That slows me again.

Options might include a home made solution to lower the battery or to buy an after market chassis that does that for me. The expense may not be worth the gain however and the Slash may still be slower. Hard to say for sure.

The BB shocks are all alloy, but seem to leak more than I'm used to. Not too sure how the SC10 or Blitz guys are doing here but it's a PITA for sure.

The motor mount on the Slash is just plastic and getting the right gear mesh is a problem. After time the plastic wears from making adjustments which will eventually compound the problem more and more.

The rear suspension arms more very free and with little slop. The fronts on mine bind and do not drop under their own weight. I've tried reaming the hinge pin holes on the chassis and arms but I'm still getting some binding. More work needed there.

Nothing has broken to date and this is one area that I like. The gear diff is fairly maintenance free but it isn't sealed so any diff fluid you add will eventually drip out. Getting to the diff can be a pain and if you're not careful you could strip the plastic parts with constant use. Same is likely true for SC10 and Blitz though so not a handicap.

I'll update later as I get more time with the Slash.

[Andrew]

I should have a low cg chassis for the slash soon,it will be made of 16 gauge sheet metal ( not much of it though) so it should be light and low, available at the end of the month hopefully. Light, low and strong are the goals